After a slow start, spring may actually be here. Because of the seasonally below average temperatures, turf has been slow to grow. Our schedule, a week late based on what we had planned, will actually reflect a more typical year now that some sense of normal spring weather is occurring. Our second round of pre-emergent will begin during the week of May 6, and we will be spraying any weeds that have sprouted.
- It is not too late to aerate. This a recurring theme. Twice a year will improve the overall condition of your turf.
- Overseeding should be completed soon to ensure sufficient time to develop grass plants healthy enough to withstand the summer temperatures especially given what we have experienced the last two summers in the Omaha area. For turf that is dead, we can put a plan in place to address the problem in the late summer
- It might be beneficial to take a leaf rake to smaller areas of that do not appear to be responding. A gentle raking along with aeration may stimulate some re-growth if any of the root zone survived
Wait as long as possible to provide supplemental irrigation. We have had more than adequate spring rain to carry most turf for some time. Turf provides more than enough hints when supplemental irrigation is needed.
We are indebted to the University of Nebraska for its ongoing support of optimal turf care practices and the turf care profession.
Has nature’s recent precipitation had you singing in the rain… or perhaps the snow? After the challenges the turf endured last year, the rain definitely calls for celebration—we understand if you’re not ready to sing and dance over the snow! According to the University of Nebraska-Lincoln Turfgrass Science Program, Sarpy and Douglas counties are still considered to be in “severe” drought as of April 30, 2013. While the rain we received is an excellent start to the spring, it is important to begin proper turf care practices now in order to help our lawns recover from the previous year and to prepare our lawns for the possibility of another year of low rainfall.
To help our turf tolerate continued stress due to drought, UNL offers the following suggestions:
- Mow at the same height all year long, and at the highest setting— 3” or more.
- Mow frequently so no more than 1/3 of the blade is removed during one mowing.
- Return clippings to lawn rather than bagging the grass in order for turf to retain nutrients and moisture.
- Aerate at least once, if not twice, a year to reduce soil compaction.
- Check sprinkler heads to ensure they are accurately and efficiently spraying the lawn rather than the street.
- Water deeply and infrequently.
- The best time to water is the morning when there is little wind and lower temperatures.
- Install a rain sensor to prevent your sprinkler system from watering during or after heavy rains.
Remember that precipitation per week is the combined amount of Mother Nature’s rain plus anything you add to it. Excessive watering will only waste water and promote unhealthy growing conditions in a variety of ways.
The University of Nebraska is a tremendous resource for proper turf care practices. We encourage you to read the full articles. Please visit:
http://turf.unl.edu/pdfctarticles/april_practical_irrigation.pdf
http://turf.unl.edu/pdfcaextpub/homelawnirrigation2011a.pdf
When you purchased your house, did it perhaps only have a 10’ X 10’ concrete slab for a patio? Have you been in your house for awhile and your concrete is cracking or your family is expanding so much you can’t all enjoy the patio together? Perhaps a mature tree or the freeze-thaw cycle has wreaked havoc on your sidewalk, or your preferences have changed since 20 years ago when you first landscaped. All of these are common concerns we hear from clients. Luckily there are many options to address these situations.
The first solution is the most basic. In cases where concrete has buckled or cracked and
become hazardous, just replace it with new concrete. In some circumstances of settling concrete, there is also an option of mudjacking which is a process of pumping an expandable liquid solution (referred to as mud) under the concrete in order to elevate it to its original height.
If your preferences or needs have changed, it might be time to consider a renovation. Renovations can include expanding the concrete or tearing out the old concrete and replacing it with new material, like pavers. An additional benefit of a paver patio is that it can include simple features, such as a seatwall, that not only adds depth and visual interest to the patio, but also adds functionality and more space for guests. renovation.
Tree roots can be a very common issue for concrete. You may replace the same section of concrete several times because roots keep destroying the concrete! You love your tree, but are tired of tripping over that spot that has buckled time and time again. Instead of fighting what seems to be a never-ending battle, another option is to replace the concrete with pavers, so you only have to replace a few pavers at a time. You will have to compromise the root system of the tree, so be sure to consult one of our certified arborist. Please visit our blog for more information on surface roots.
Similar to tree roots, water and the continuous contracting and expanding caused by the freeze-thaw cycle can also create recurring damage to concrete. This is yet another situation where pavers are a popular choice. If nature is bound and determined to damage your concrete, by switching to pavers you may once again only have to replace a few pavers rather than an entire section of concrete!
Similar to tree roots, water and the continuous contracting and expanding caused by the freeze-thaw cycle can also create recurring damage to concrete. This is yet another situation where pavers are a popular choice. If nature is bound and determined to damage your concrete, by switching to pavers you may once again only have to replace a few pavers rather than an entire section of concrete!
Contact CM’s today to start planning your renovation!
A year ago in the Omaha metro area, CM's A Cut Above was already out on turf in the middle of March. This year we saw the end of March with snow on the ground and regressing soil temperatures. Have no fear. The daffodils and tulips are breaking ground and there are signs of bud formation on the trees.
CM's lawn care season begins with the application of a pre-emergent. Pre-emergent does not distinguish between weed growth and new seed growth; therefore if you are overseeding your yard on your own, make sure to avoid applying pre-emergent in that area. We follow with a second round of pre-emergent about five weeks after the first application. As always, our goal is to attack the roots and shoots of new crabgrass plants. We remind you that the product only begins working when it is watered in.
Our mowing recommendations here at CM's are the same as last year. For cool season grasses, mow high the entire growing season. It is good for the grass plants and it crowds out weeds. Keep the mower blade sharp. Never remove more than one third of the crown at any one mowing. You do not need to bag the grass; let it
decompose, making use of the nutrients that are in the grass clippings.
Aerating this spring is always a good idea. Twice a year is not too much given the composition of the soils in Nebraska.
Need assistance getting things started this spring?
We often talk about landscapes creating curb appeal and creating an aesthetically pleasing space. But have you ever had a problem area in your yard that you decided to give up on and just live with it? New landscaping can not only be pleasing to the eye, it can also be a solution to some homeowner frustrations! This year we will focus on how landscaping and renovations can solve common issues that homeowners face. If you have an idea for topics we should cover, please contact us!
Today’s focus is on water flow issues including rain water or sprinkler system runoff. Have you ever had standing water in one part of the yard while another area is bone dry? How about water seeping into your basement, an area that always gets washed out, or water that just doesn’t seem to drain from your yard? You are not alone! These are some of the most common issues we hear about. Practically any change to land will have some effect on the flow of water. These occur from the grading on newly constructed homes, ground settling in new or existing homes, or new construction or renovations from neighboring properties. Luckily, there are many options to consider depending on your individual situation.
CM’s can create, renovate, or re-shape a landscape bed in order to change the flow of water.
We can install a drainage stream bed to create a stone path for water drainage or install drainage tile in order to extend down spouts so water will be directed to drain in the correct direction.
We can also install a retaining structure as needed in conjunction with adequately shaping the turf for proper drainage and to support changes in terrain.
It is important to note that every property is different and each home may require a specific plan of action.
Contact CM’s today to start planning your solution!
It is sometimes hard to believe that we are thinking about fall already, but it is a reality for those of us in this business as well as for homeowners with an interest in the long-term well-being of their lawns.
We have experienced unusually high temperatures in June, and there has not been much rain. The cool season grasses have reacted as one might expect. The University of Nebraska-Lincoln is nice enough to provide periodic updates on climate and its impact on turf. Dr. Zac Reicher, Professsor, Turfgrass Science, recently sent us the following:
High temperatures cause problems both above and below ground. Above ground, photosynthesis or energy production of cool-season turfgrasses starts to decline once daytime air temperatures exceed 70-75F. At the same time, respiration (the energy-consuming process to maintain the plant) is increasing with higher temperatures. At air temperatures greater than 80-85F, cool-season turfgrass plants are in an energy debit where energy demand is higher than energy production. Short periods of an energy debit are normal and the plant uses stored energy to meet its needs. However,energy stores are depleted with extended heat, and the plant weakens. This energy depletion is further exaggerated during warm nights when the plant uses up far more stored energy for respiration than during cool nights. Since the energy reserves of cool-season plants are fairly high early in the summer (June), they are usually capable of withstanding early summer heat like we are expecting. However, this early summer heat depletes energy reserves that may be needed later in the summer.
Below ground, root growth of cool-season turfgrass is optimal between 50 and 65F and declines quickly above 70F. At the same time, root death increases at elevated temperatures, especially in wet soils with limited ability to hold oxygen. The end result is that root systems become shallow and spindly with prolonged heat and thus have limited ability to take up water and nutrients.
Following are management suggestions to help the cool-season grasses cope with the heat:
The almost immediate response to high temperatures is to increase irrigation, which makes sense and is needed since most water is used for cooling the plant. However, saturated soils from over irrigation limits oxygen leading to root death and thus severely compromises the grass plant over the rest of the season. Therefore, we still want to keep turf on the dry side to maximize soil oxygen, but at the same time enough water should be applied to allow the plant to cool itself.
As you can see, the processes are complex. Dr. Reicher goes on to talk about mowing strategies as well.
So, how do we build that healthy lawn that is best able to withstand the rigors of Nebraska weather, turf disease, and insects? We cannot stress enough the importance of aerating lawns twice a year. We believe that periodic overseeding, following a double-plug aeration, is a way to introduce newer varieties of turf cultivars in addition to thickening up the lawn. In the case of lawns that have significant damage, we would add power-raking to remove excess damaged turf material. Fall fertilization is extremely important as well. It is not the time to skimp on applications.
By mid-July, we will have completed our applications for grub control. Healthy turf (there is that word healthy again) can withstand the presence of grubs at below treatment level thresholds. Some grubs may always be present at some stage of development. We do have products for insect break-through later in the season.
We try to minimize our use of post-emergent weed control products when the temperatures are high. These are products we spray, and we like to avoid damaging healthy turf surrounding the weeds. Additionally, the products simply don’t work as well in extreme heat. Optimal control for most broad-leaf weeds occurs in the fall.
Surface roots can be more than just a nuisance; they can also pose a tripping hazard. While trees will send some roots down deep for moisture and stability, the majority of tree roots grow within the top 4-8 inches of the soil. As the tree ages and matures, the roots expand in girth and make their way to the surface. Some trees, like Silver Maple, will have more surface roots than others, but usually at some point all trees will have at least a few roots coming to the surface.
Each large surface root is attached to many fine feeder roots. By severing one large root, a large supply of vital nutrients and water is lost. If several large surface roots are cut, the tree’s stability can be compromised.
Covering the roots with excessive soil and sod has a similar effect on the tree as cutting a root would. By covering the woody material of the surface root with soil, the wood will eventually rot and kill that particular root. This also cuts off a large supply of vital nutrients and water.
The best way to deal with surface roots is to carefully landscape around them. Either plant a ground cover that will not need to be mowed or plant small perennials under the tree, taking care not to disturb the root system of the tree. A layer of mulch 1-2 inches deep can be added around the plantings and on top of the tree roots without causing damage to the tree.
By following a few important guidelines, you can safely landscape around an established tree.
Avoid soil build up against the bark of the tree. Raising the soil level by just a few inches can cause the trunk to rot. This will cause the tree to decline and eventually die. If possible, try to avoid adding soil to any area underneath the tree canopy. If you must add soil, use the smallest amount possible, taking care to keep it a few feet away from the trunk. Mounding soil on top of woody roots will have a similar effect to piling it against the bark. The wood protecting the root will rot, potentially cutting off a large source of water and nutrients to the tree.
When it comes time to plant, dig with care! Avoid damaging the roots as much as possible. Keep in mind that by severing a root close to the trunk, you are also cutting off many tiny feeder roots that are connected to the one root that is cut.
Using about 2-3” of mulch will not hurt the tree. However, do not add mulch right up against the trunk. It is important to keep good airflow around the base of the tree.
Our customers are justifiably proud of their landscapes. We like to work in our gardens and turf. We like others to enjoy them as well. We plant species which attract butterflies, bees, and birds. They add to the attractiveness of our landscape. There are others who often show up uninvited in one sense; but they too, also are most appreciative of the work we do in our landscapes.
We receive a number of calls each spring regarding tracks in the yard as the snow melts. Invariably, the tracks are vole runs. There are three species of voles in Nebraska, but for turf areas, we are probably only dealing with two of the species. In size, they are a little larger than mice with a shorter tail and a stocky build. They have cyclical populations which can range from 25 per acre to as many as 250 per acre. While those numbers seem high, consider the size of your turf area, as well as the fact that cycles are irregular and not sustained at any level for long, before becoming too alarmed. As they are the favorite prey of snakes, owls, coyotes, hawks, weasels and other carnivores, they have a high mortality rate. To compensate for this, they are rather prolific breeders.
The tracks you see in the spring as the snow melts are clipped grass surface runways connecting underground entrances and feeding sites. Voles are active year round, but the runs are less noticeable when turf is actively growing. Voles eat bulbs, the shoot and roots of plants, tree bark, tubers, the seeds of grasses, all of which leads to plant and tree damage, the severity of which varies with the size of the population.
So what does a body do? Doing nothing is always an option. Once turf begins growing, the surface runs usually fill back in. If vole numbers are not large, you may notice no damage. However, if you cannot abide any interlopers, or the ones that are there are doing a number on your plantings, you do have options.
You can modify the habitat by making sure grass is mowed properly and gardens are weeded, especially around trees. This denies them covered access, making them more susceptible to predators.
One can try to exclude them by fencing off expensive trees and plants. This usually works better with smaller gardens. The mesh openings should not exceed one quarter inch, and the fence should be twelve inches high and buried slightly below ground (if you want to fence out rabbits at the same time, go to twenty inches high and four inches below ground). You can also wrap trees with wire or plastics, making sure there are no gaps.
Now, if they have really made you mad, you can hire an assassin; or if you are not too squeamish, you can do the 
deed yourself. Mouse traps work nicely. Set two in a run, with triggers facing away or one trap perpendicular to the run with the trigger in the run. You can place two traps on either side of an entrance, triggers facing the entrance hole. It may be a good idea to secure the traps to the ground with a nail into the soil. Peanut butter makes great bait.
These are remedies that most people can do. There are other methods best left to a professional.
A great deal of this information comes from the wisdom and experience of Dennis Ferraro, resident herpetologist, and an extension associate professor at the School of Natural Resources at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Dennis is a frequent speaker and instructor at various turf conferences and classes for professionals in the turf industry. He is most entertaining and always eager to help us do a better job of serving you. He will be referenced often by us throughout the year.
Stay tuned.
Chuck Sr.
February is a great time to start organizing your vegetable garden. As the amount of daylight slowly increases each day, you can begin to consider which veggies you want to plant this season, how many you will have space for, and if you will be starting any from seed. Many seasoned gardeners find that keeping a journal is a helpful way to remember what worked well the year before and what they would like to do differently for next season. You can start by considering three important factors.
Location: The area should be exposed to at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Taller plants, such as tomatoes, corn, and trellised plants should be planted on the north side of the garden so that the smaller plants will not be shaded by the taller ones.
Spacing: The size of your garden plot will determine how many plants you are able to grow in that space. Your vegetable plants will need plenty of room above and below ground to grow and mature. Most vegetable plants are sold with tags that will list the spacing requirements. Generally, small plants such as garlic and green onions need about 3-4 inches between plants on all sides. Vegetables such as chard, lettuce, and cabbage need about 6-9 inches between plants. Larger vegetable plants, including tomatoes and peppers, need about two feet of space. Using a trellis is a great way to conserve valuable garden space. Vegetables that can be trellised include peas, beans, cucumbers, small squash, small melons, and eggplants.
Companion Plants: Companion planting is the practice of planting vegetables alongside certain plants that will attract bees and other beneficial insects to the garden while deterring pests. Planting sunflowers near the garden will distract ants and aphids. Whiteflies are a common pest in vegetable gardens, but if you plant one of the stronger scented varieties of marigolds or basil they will repel whiteflies, nematodes, and more. In a similar fashion, chrysanthemums and dahlias will repel root nematodes and other crawlers.
Enjoy the warm weather!