When you purchased your house, did it perhaps only have a 10’ X 10’ concrete slab for a patio? Have you been in your house for awhile and your concrete is cracking or your family is expanding so much you can’t all enjoy the patio together? Perhaps a mature tree or the freeze-thaw cycle has wreaked havoc on your sidewalk, or your preferences have changed since 20 years ago when you first landscaped. All of these are common concerns we hear from clients. Luckily there are many options to address these situations.
The first solution is the most basic. In cases where concrete has buckled or cracked and
become hazardous, just replace it with new concrete. In some circumstances of settling concrete, there is also an option of mudjacking which is a process of pumping an expandable liquid solution (referred to as mud) under the concrete in order to elevate it to its original height.
If your preferences or needs have changed, it might be time to consider a renovation. Renovations can include expanding the concrete or tearing out the old concrete and replacing it with new material, like pavers. An additional benefit of a paver patio is that it can include simple features, such as a seatwall, that not only adds depth and visual interest to the patio, but also adds functionality and more space for guests. renovation.
Tree roots can be a very common issue for concrete. You may replace the same section of concrete several times because roots keep destroying the concrete! You love your tree, but are tired of tripping over that spot that has buckled time and time again. Instead of fighting what seems to be a never-ending battle, another option is to replace the concrete with pavers, so you only have to replace a few pavers at a time. You will have to compromise the root system of the tree, so be sure to consult one of our certified arborist. Please visit our blog for more information on surface roots.
Similar to tree roots, water and the continuous contracting and expanding caused by the freeze-thaw cycle can also create recurring damage to concrete. This is yet another situation where pavers are a popular choice. If nature is bound and determined to damage your concrete, by switching to pavers you may once again only have to replace a few pavers rather than an entire section of concrete!
Similar to tree roots, water and the continuous contracting and expanding caused by the freeze-thaw cycle can also create recurring damage to concrete. This is yet another situation where pavers are a popular choice. If nature is bound and determined to damage your concrete, by switching to pavers you may once again only have to replace a few pavers rather than an entire section of concrete!
Contact CM’s today to start planning your renovation!
We often talk about landscapes creating curb appeal and creating an aesthetically pleasing space. But have you ever had a problem area in your yard that you decided to give up on and just live with it? New landscaping can not only be pleasing to the eye, it can also be a solution to some homeowner frustrations! This year we will focus on how landscaping and renovations can solve common issues that homeowners face. If you have an idea for topics we should cover, please contact us!
Today’s focus is on water flow issues including rain water or sprinkler system runoff. Have you ever had standing water in one part of the yard while another area is bone dry? How about water seeping into your basement, an area that always gets washed out, or water that just doesn’t seem to drain from your yard? You are not alone! These are some of the most common issues we hear about. Practically any change to land will have some effect on the flow of water. These occur from the grading on newly constructed homes, ground settling in new or existing homes, or new construction or renovations from neighboring properties. Luckily, there are many options to consider depending on your individual situation.
CM’s can create, renovate, or re-shape a landscape bed in order to change the flow of water.
We can install a drainage stream bed to create a stone path for water drainage or install drainage tile in order to extend down spouts so water will be directed to drain in the correct direction.
We can also install a retaining structure as needed in conjunction with adequately shaping the turf for proper drainage and to support changes in terrain.
It is important to note that every property is different and each home may require a specific plan of action.
Contact CM’s today to start planning your solution!
By following a few important guidelines, you can safely landscape around an established tree.
Avoid soil build up against the bark of the tree. Raising the soil level by just a few inches can cause the trunk to rot. This will cause the tree to decline and eventually die. If possible, try to avoid adding soil to any area underneath the tree canopy. If you must add soil, use the smallest amount possible, taking care to keep it a few feet away from the trunk. Mounding soil on top of woody roots will have a similar effect to piling it against the bark. The wood protecting the root will rot, potentially cutting off a large source of water and nutrients to the tree.
When it comes time to plant, dig with care! Avoid damaging the roots as much as possible. Keep in mind that by severing a root close to the trunk, you are also cutting off many tiny feeder roots that are connected to the one root that is cut.
Using about 2-3” of mulch will not hurt the tree. However, do not add mulch right up against the trunk. It is important to keep good airflow around the base of the tree.
After your fall clean-up is complete for the year, it is time to winterize your tools so that they are sharp, sanitized, and easy to find come spring.
- Clean all soil and debris off tools.
- Sanitize tools, especially those that have been used on diseased plant material.
- Sharpen blades of hoes, pruners, spades, loppers, and saws.
- Make any necessary repairs.
- Organize tools and equipment so that it is easily accessible for spring.
Remove soil or vegetation from all tools using a wire brush, scraper or a strong stream of water. Wire brushes marketed to clean grills are handy because they usually include a scraper. Once everything has been cleaned and dried, lubricate all tool pivot points and springs. Finally, spray all bare metal parts and cutting edges with penetrating oil such as WD-40 to prevent rust.
When sanitizing garden tools, the usual ratio is a 10 percent solution or 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Using a 1 cup measuring cup, this would be 1 cup bleach to 9 cups water. Use a heavy solution of 3 parts bleach and 2 parts water to disinfect tools used on plants that are known to be diseased. Sanitizing once per year for tools such as shovel and hoes is sufficient, but tools such as pruners and loppers should be sanitized after each use. This process with help prevent the spread of fungus, disease, insects, and insect eggs.
Check all tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts and tighten them accordingly. Replace or repair broken handles and other bent or broken parts. Wheelbarrows, carts and wagons may also need some attention before winter. Clean them thoroughly and touch up paint chips with spray paint to prevent exposed steel from rusting.
With your array of garden tools and supplies, the key to great garage storage and organization is getting things off the floor and onto the wall. A pegboard attached to a wall is a great place to store garden tools when not in use. Hardware stores and home improvement centers have a variety of hooks and wall brackets for tools of all shapes and sizes. Don’t forget the hoses and other watering aids. Before storing hoses, nozzles and other sprinkler attachments away for the winter, drain all the water from them and store in a dry location. Hose supports or reels prevent sagging and kinking. Regardless of your preferred storage method, having tools ready to go in the spring will make those early season chores that much easier.
Have a great Thanksgiving!
Rachael and Tobias
No centerpiece is as lovely as a vase of freshly cut flowers. Sure, you can pick up a bunch at most grocery stores, but who knows how long they've been sitting in that tub of water. Wouldn't it be great to be able to walk into your own garden and cut a beautiful bouquet? Here's how...
Site Selection: Choose a site with well-drained soil, plenty of sun and easy access to water. Prepare the soil by clearing the garden area of grass and weeds. Work organic matter, such as compost, into the soil.
Plant Selection: Decide on a color palette. It is best to include plants with different textures and of different sizes. Don’t forget the greens! Add foliage plants for color and texture.
Harvesting the Flowers: Harvest flowers in the morning if possible. Cool air is better than hot afternoon sun for preserving fresh flowers. Use sharp scissors or cutting shears. If possible, choose flower stalks with a few buds that have not yet opened to prolong the life of your arrangement. Once you harvest your flowers, it is a good idea to give each stem a fresh cut just before placing them in the vase. It is best to make the fresh cut under running water to prevent air bubbles from getting into the vascular system of the stem and blocking water uptake. Cutting the stems at an angle will help them absorb more water. Remove any foliage that will be below the water line and place in warm water.
Caring for your Arrangement: The arrangement should be placed in a cool location, away from heat sources such as direct sunlight from a window, an oven, a heat vent, etc. The cooler the temperatures, the longer your bouquet will stay fresh. Using a floral preservative solution similar to the packets that come with flower arrangements can also help prolong the life of your arrangement. It is important to keep the water free from any leaves or plant material. Decaying plant material will clog the vascular system of the flower stems and cause them to wilt very quickly. Keep an eye on the water level of the vase. Fresh cut flowers can take up water at a surprisingly fast rate. Refill the vase before it runs out of water.
Common Cut-Flower Plants: 
Primary flowers: sunflowers, gerbera daisies, spider mums, roses, hydrangea, lilies. Accent flowers: alstromeria, delphinium, mini carnations, larkspur, asters, gladiolus,goldenrod. Greenery: Lamb’s Ear, lavender, Bells of Ireland, ornamental grass.
Enjoy your cut flowers!
Rachael and Tobias
What is mulch?
Mulch in itself is material that is spread out over and around the roots of what you have planted. Two types of mulch are organic and inorganic mulch. Organic mulch includes grass
clippings, leaves, bark mulch, newspaper and straw like pine straw. Inorganic mulch includes various types of rocks, stones and gravel. The advantage to using organic mulch is that overtime it breaks down and adds nutrients to the soil, thus making the soil richer. However, because it eventually decomposes, organic mulch will need to be replaced from time to time.
Why Use mulch?
Mulching is one of the most important ways to protect and maintain healthy landscaped plants, shrubs and flowers. Some
- it prevents weeds from coming through
- organic mulches add to the nutrient base of the soil making the soil richer
- helps to hold water and moisture in your plants and gardens, therefore you don’t have to water as much
- helps the roots maintain an even temperature
- protects your soil from erosion
- adds to the aesthetic appeal of your landscape by making it look more finished
Applying Mulch
When applying mulch you want to put a layer of it 2-4 inches as close to the roots as possible. Remember to replace the mulch as needed if using organic materials. Make sure you don’t use too much as too much of it will be a bad thing possible causing the roots to suffocate. You also want to make sure you keep any mulch away from tree trunks. Organic mulches are very beneficial but they can wind up being a habitat for insects. Most of these insects will not harm your plants but they may become a nuisance for you. Keep this in mind when using organic mulch close to your house. Pavement ants are known to love bark mulch. If put too close to your house you may have unwanted guests. Some people like to spread out a layer of plastic underneath before they apply mulch. This isn’t a good idea because it dries out the soil underneath defeating the purpose of maintaining proper moisture for the root system. The best time to apply mulch is in late Spring once the ground starts to warm up.
As a final mention on using mulch I can’t emphasize enough how it can improve the aesthetics of your landscape. Whether you use colored bark mulch or beautiful colored rocks, it will really make your yard pop. It is well known that beautifully landscaped yards add to the value of your home.
Article from www.LandscapingIdeasOnline.com
The temperatures are getting colder and the days of rain will soon be turning in to days of snow. Time to put away the lawn equipment and pull out the shovels and test out your snow blower. Before you put away your landscape equipment, it is a good idea to winterize them to ensure a longer life and make sure they are ready for your return next spring. Here are some helpful tips/ reminders brought to you by John Fech, a UNL Extension Educator.
Clean and sharpen garden tools before putting them away for winter to minimize rust and ensure that they are ready for use in the spring.
Remove soil, rust and other debris with a wire brush or steel wool. It may be necessary to dissolve accumulated sap and resin on some pruning tools with a solvent, such as kerosene, and to loosen the pivot bolt and separate the blades. Position the tool, using a bench vise or clamp if needed, so you can put the proper bevel on the cutting edge with a flat file or whetstone. Remove any metal burrs from the backside of the cutting edge with 300 grit wet/dry sandpaper when sharpening is completed. Finish with a light application of good quality oil to prevent rusting.
As you prepare your lawn mower and other tools for winter storage, don't forget to winterize your sprayers and fertilizer spreader. Smooth, dependable pesticide application next summer depends largely on the care and maintenance that sprayers and spreaders receive over the winter. Since the "pest season" is about over for this year, this is a good time to winterize your equipment.
Apply oil to the bottom of the hopper and all moving parts. Store the spreader with the shutter or gate fully open.
Compressed air sprayer tanks should be filled one-fourth full with mild dishwashing solution. Shake the sealed tank to loosen any spray residues. Pressurize the tank and spray out the water. Drain the tank upside down until thoroughly dry. Once dry, place a few drops of oil into the top of the pump cylinder. Pump the cylinder several times to coat the cylinder and valves with an oil film. Reassemble the sprayer before storing.
Nozzle tips and screens should be removed and cleaned with soapy water. Clogged nozzle tips should be cleaned with a sliver of wood or other soft object, not with wire. An old toothbrush, properly labeled as being meant for pesticide use and stored with the sprayer, works very well to clean spray residue and other deposits from nozzles. Store nozzle tips and screens in diesel fuel or kerosene to prevent corrosion.
There are many questions you may have while looking at a potential project on your property. You have a world of ideas on what you want to do, but may not have an idea of where to start. A quality contractor can help you from your starting idea all the way through completion.
But how do you choose from all of the contractors in your area? There are many steps you go through when figuring out who to hire. You check with friends on who they have used, check the Better Business Bureau, take a look at rating sites like Yelp or Angie's List, you may even post the question to all of your friends on Facebook. Regardless of how you get your information, you still have a decision to make.
There are several things to keep in mind before making your final decision.
- Do they comply with state and local codes and regulations.
- Do they have the proper certification for the work they are doing.
- A quality contractor does not offer price as the only consideration. Often times the cheapest in the short run is not the cheapest in the long run.
- Check out references and/or portfolio.
- Ask if any sub-contractors will be used and what work they will be doing.
- Are they insured.
- Check with local building supply retailers. An established contractor with a reputation for using quality materials and paying his bills with suppliers is more likely to do quality work for you. If need be, during the interview process, ask where they get their supplies from.
- How many projects like yours have the completed in the last year. This will help determine how familiar they are with the type of work your project requires.
- Do they listen to you and your ideas or are they pushing theirs on to you. It is your home and your investment and you want to be happy with the final project.
- Get the final agreement/ plan in writing.
Choosing the right contractor is not always an easy process, but it is the most important step in your project. When you choose the right contractor you have peace of mind that your project will be done on time and that you will have quality workmanship that will last for years to come. Remember that price isn't the only factor to consider. If a project is done too cheap you will have to re-invest money again to get things fixed. And believe it or not, this can be as soon as 1 year down the road.
Remember, this is your project! Your satisfaction is the most important thing!
Tobias and I just love fall! The weather is so welcome after the heat and humidity of summer and the colors, textures and aromas of the season are so fabulous. We know winter is coming so you want to make the most of every minute we can spend outdoors now.
One of our favorite things to do this time of year is plan our spring landscape beds. Tobias doesn’t care too much about which colors or specific plants I select at the garden center as long as he gets to help with the digging and the occasional batting around of a bulb!
A word to the wise about shopping for bulbs: if you’re not exactly sure what you want, take your time and read the bulb labels carefully. They contain all the information you need to determine how many bulbs you’ll need, how to plant the bulbs, what you can expect as far as the size of the plants and blooms and when the specific plants will bloom. Tobias suggests wearing comfortable shoes for walking up and down the aisles at the garden center.
Are you ready to get started? Here we go.
Bulb selection
Purchasing high quality bulbs will help to ensure future numbers and size of blooms. While top quality tulip and hyacinth bulbs are usually desirable, smaller bulbs will usually suffice for snowdrops and daffodils which easily grow and multiply each year. It is important to choose healthy, fresh bulbs.
Site selection
Most bulbs require 6-8 hours of sun per day in order to make enough nutrients to grow, make it through the winter, and flower the following spring. However, if you planning on planting new bulbs each fall, your site options increase. This is because in early spring when the foliage of the bulbs begins to emerge, there are few leaves on trees to provide shade; therefore, any bulbs that are planted under deciduous trees or in shady areas will receive enough sun in order to bloom satisfactorily for the first spring. Snowdrops and winter aconite are the first to show up in the spring, usually in March. These are soon followed by crocus, scilla, and chionodoxa. These are followed by the hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips. Bulbs are usually sold with a label that will give information on bloom time, bloom size, and hardiness.
Soil preparation
Properly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising 
bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil. A fertilizer specifically formulated for bulbs can be applied according to label instructions at the time of planting. The fertilizer should have a high amount of phosphorous. Bone meal is a great organic source of phosphorous but should be avoided in areas where skunks and rodents may be tempted to dig up the bulbs in their search for the “buried bones”. Having the right amount of nutrients available to the bulbs this time of year is important because the roots of the bulbs will still be growing and absorbing nutrients through November and sometimes even into December.
Planting 
Again, the bulbs’ label should have all the information you need as far as planting depth, which end faces up, and how tall the plant will be.
Spring care
Any fertilizing should be avoided in the spring while the bulbs are in bloom, as this can shorten the bloom time.
So, are you ready to go dig in the dirt? Don’t forget to get your tools in proper order. A small shovel 
will work just fine or, you can pick up a handy bulb-planting tool at the garden center. Tobias is a firm believer in stretching before and during bulb planting (and just about any other time as well). You might find yourself in an uncomfortable position while planting so do remember to stretch and protect your back and leg muscles.
Have fun with your bulb planting project. This is a great project that can involve the entire family. Don’t forget to send us a note and let us know how it goes for you. We’d love to see pictures of landscape beds now and again next spring when you’ll be enjoying the fruits of your labor.
Happy Planting!
Rachael and Tobias
September - the harbinger of fall. The chores start to add up while the days get shorter and cooler.
It is time to start cleaning out landscapes and cutting back fading summer plants. It is also the time to give your peonies some attention. Labor Day is the signal that it is time to cut back peonies for the year. Did you know the peony is one of the few perennials that actually prefer to be transplanted and divided in the fall? Not to be confused with daylilies and hostas that perform better when transplanted in the spring, transplanting peonies just after Labor Day is usually the ideal time to complete this task.
There are several reasons for dividing and transplanting peonies. Peonies prefer a good amount of sun, but can tolerate some shade. If the peony’s location is heavily shaded by a tree or large shrub, the flowering can be reduced. Transplanting the peony to a spot with more sunlight will increase flowering. Another reason to transplant and divide peonies is overcrowding. Sometimes older, more established peonies can become overcrowded and as a result will produce fewer flowers. Dividing the peony will refresh and invigorate the plant.
After the stems have been cut to near ground level, begin digging around the plant. It is best to dig 
straight down, about 6 inches from the plant using a sharp spade or shovel. If you are transplanting the entire plant, make a few passes around it, digging deeper with each pass (to about 14 inches) and at more of an angle. If you are dividing the plant, determine how much of the plant is to be removed and dig through the plant, segmenting the portion to be divided.
Now you are ready to begin prying the plant upward. It is normal hearthe snapping of the roots at this point. After all roots have been cut or snapped off, the plant can be lifted out of the hole with a shovel and carefully turned over so that it rests on its stems
Carefully loosen and remove as much soil as possible by either rinsing with water or using a sharp 
stick or screwdriver. If you have an assistant like Tobias, the paws come in handy for this step! Once soil has been removed, the plant can be cut and divided into sections with at least 5 “eyes” each. The eyes are the small pink nodes along the roots that are the stem buds for the next season’s growth.
Each section is now ready to be planted. Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the root mass to be
planted. (This is another task that Tobias is quite helpful with!) At the end of this step, the eyes should be planted at a depth of just 1-2 inches below soil level. If they are planted too deep they will fail to bloom for a few years. Peonies prefer well drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Adding peat moss or compost to the soil that is removed during this step is a good idea, but is not required. Place the root mass in the hole and begin to backfill the soil. Once the eyes are covered with soil, add a 1-2 inch layer of mulch to protect the plant from extreme freezing and thawing through the winter. In the spring the mulch can be removed after the threat of a hard freeze has passed.
Even if the peony is planted at the correct depth, poor flowering should be expected for the first year. After two seasons the plant should be back to full flowering potential.
Love peonies, but disappointed in the short bloom period? Tobias suggests planting several different varieties of peonies. Selecting early and late season peonies can lengthen the bloom period to about 6 weeks!
Now that your peonies have been put to bed for the season, it is time to start thinking about bulb planting. Be sure to check back in October for more on planting tulips and other spring-blooming bulbs. Tobias can't wait to dig in the dirt!
Happy Gardening!
Rachael